Article and selected photos by Dylan Clements‍

Clements Travel is a Virtuoso member and can book GoldenEye Jamaica with additional Virtuoso benefits on eligible rates. These typically include daily breakfast for two guests per bedroom, a US$100 hotel credit, an upgrade on arrival subject to availability, early check-in and late check-out subject to availability, and complimentary Wi-Fi. Contact Clements Travel for the current Virtuoso rate and benefits for your dates.

GoldenEye had been on my list for quite a while. I took a friend who is a huge James Bond fan, so for him the Ian Fleming connection was a big part of the appeal. For me, I wanted somewhere low-key. I didn't want one of those giant Caribbean resorts where you arrive to hundreds of rooms, several enormous pools and a lobby the size of an airport terminal.

GoldenEye is almost the opposite. The hotel is a collection of private villas, cottages and Beach Huts spread through tropical gardens, along the lagoon and beside secluded coves rather than being built around one huge resort complex. The hotel currently has around 49 standalone accommodations, including Beach Huts, Lagoon Cottages and Beach and Lagoon Villas, as well as the original Fleming Villa.

This trip was only a short stop for me, really a couple of days to hang out with a friend, so I didn't go mad on the room category and booked the entry-level One Bedroom Beach Hut. It was a good way to try GoldenEye, although having now walked around the property and seen some of the other accommodation, I would probably spend more next time and choose one of the villas, particularly the ones sitting directly along the waterways.

GoldenEye is quite difficult to understand until you have been there because there isn't really one central part of the hotel. The villas, cottages and huts are hidden among thick vegetation, some lining the lagoon, others looking onto small sections of beach, and some areas are so private that you can quite easily go for a while without seeing another guest. The hotel itself describes GoldenEye as a collection of villas, cottages and Beach Huts set among tropical gardens, private beaches and secluded coves, which is probably the most accurate way to explain the layout.

That privacy also helps explain why GoldenEye has always appealed to high-profile guests. What I liked, though, is that it doesn't feel like a celebrity hotel when you are there. Nobody is making a fuss about who has stayed before you, and the James Bond connection hasn't taken over the entire place. My friend could enjoy the Fleming history while I could enjoy GoldenEye for what I wanted it to be: a small, relaxed Jamaican hideaway rather than another giant Caribbean resort.

Getting to GoldenEye

GoldenEye is in Oracabessa on Jamaica's north coast, about 20 minutes beyond Ocho Rios. It is not an airport hotel by any stretch, so getting there is part of the trip. GoldenEye itself recommends Montego Bay because the drive is both faster and more scenic. From Sangster International Airport, allow around 1 hour 45 minutes, while Kingston's Norman Manley International Airport is just under two hours away. If you happen to be arriving by private aircraft, Ian Fleming International Airport at Boscobel is only about 10 minutes from the hotel and it appears American Airlines does fly to this airport from Miami but the flights are few and far between.

I flew into Montego Bay. The airport was busy and chaotic when I arrived and, next time, I would probably pay for an airport greeter and fast-track service rather than starting a holiday standing around in queues. Once outside, things improved considerably. I had booked the transfer through GoldenEye, and our driver had a drinks chest in the car with cold Red Stripe and water waiting for us.

On the way home I deliberately did the opposite route. I wanted to visit the Bob Marley Museum in Kingston, so rather than driving all the way back to Montego Bay I continued across the island to Kingston and flew out from Norman Manley International Airport. Kingston Airport wasn’t as chaotic as Montego Bay had been when I arrived, although that may simply have been because I was departing rather than arriving. It was still a slightly strange airport experience, particularly at the departure gates where there was surprisingly little seating. It wasn’t a major problem, but it is worth knowing if you are someone who likes to get to the gate early.

If the flights work, I would still do GoldenEye this way again. Flying into Montego Bay and out of Kingston avoids retracing the same journey, gives you an excuse to spend some time in Kingston and means you see considerably more of Jamaica than you would on a straightforward return trip to the resort.

Arrival and Check-In at GoldenEye

I was especially pleased I had booked the transfer through GoldenEye when we finally arrived because the entrance is incredibly easy to miss. There is no grand driveway or enormous GoldenEye sign. It is basically a discreet gate beside the road, and if I had been driving myself, I honestly don't think I would have found it.

Once through the gate, we were greeted and given a welcome drink before checking in. After the long drive from Montego Bay, it was very welcome. We sat in the Fleming Room with it while check-in was sorted and had a look around the photographs and books.

The Fleming Room serves as GoldenEye's reception and is one of the most interesting spaces at the hotel. It is small and open, with timber floors, long wooden tables, wicker furniture, books, tropical plants and shutters opening onto the gardens. The walls are covered with old photographs and pieces connected to the history of GoldenEye.

It is worth taking some time to look around because this isn't a hotel that has invented a backstory to make itself more interesting. Ian Fleming bought the original property in 1946 and built his Jamaican home here. He later created James Bond at GoldenEye and wrote Casino Royale here in 1952, followed by his other Bond novels during his winters in Jamaica. Chris Blackwell, the founder of Island Records, later bought GoldenEye in 1976.

For my friend, who is a huge James Bond fan, this was obviously a big part of the appeal. I enjoyed it too, but what I liked more was that they haven't turned the place into a James Bond theme park. The photographs, books and references are there, but they don't overwhelm the hotel.

Unfortunately, the actual check-in process wasn't nearly as good as the surroundings. The reservation process before the trip had already involved filling out quite a lot of information and paperwork. When we arrived, we then had to provide much of the same information again.

I found that frustrating. If I've already filled everything out before travelling, I don't expect to sit there after a long drive repeating it at reception. It made the process feel dated and more drawn out than it needed to be.

It wasn't a major problem, but it was a strange contrast. You arrive through this almost hidden entrance, have a drink in a fascinating room surrounded by GoldenEye's history, and then end up dealing with paperwork you've already completed. The welcome itself was good. The administration could be much quicker.

Getting Around GoldenEye

One thing I hadn't appreciated before staying at GoldenEye was just how much ground the property covers. Looking at photographs online, I had assumed everything would be relatively close together, but the Beach Huts, cottages and villas occupy quite distinct areas of the estate.

The pathways wind through dense tropical gardens, around the lagoon and along the different waterways. Some accommodation sits right on the water, while other cottages and villas are almost hidden by the vegetation. You can walk for a few minutes through bamboo, palms and trees and suddenly find yourself at another beach, pool or section of the lagoon.

I liked this during the day because exploring the property becomes part of the stay. There isn't one obvious route everyone follows between their room, the pool and dinner. The restaurants, bars, beaches and swimming areas are spread around the estate, so you gradually get to know the place as you move through it.

The grounds also change quite a lot from one area to another. Around some of the larger villas there are lawns and more landscaped gardens, while other parts feel much denser and more enclosed. Some of the buildings are easy to spot, while others almost disappear into the planting.

The downside came at night. After dinner, I sometimes found it surprisingly difficult to find my way back to the Beach Hut. Some of the paths are quite dark and, once everything around you is vegetation, one turning can look very similar to another. I took the wrong route more than once and it became frustrating.

I wouldn't want GoldenEye to suddenly install bright lighting everywhere because that would spoil a lot of what makes the gardens appealing. A few more discreet signs or low-level markers at the main junctions would help though.

It also made me realize that where you stay at GoldenEye is almost as important as which category you book. If you're staying for several nights, I would look carefully at the property map before choosing. Someone who wants to be close to a particular restaurant, beach or pool may have a very different preference from someone who wants to be tucked away.

The Waterway Villas Would Be My Choice Next Time

Walking around gave me a much better idea of what I would book if I returned. The villas and cottages along the waterways were the accommodation that caught my attention most.

Some sit directly beside incredibly clear green water, with kayaks nearby and thick planting around them. Others are positioned around the lagoon or hidden further into the gardens. From the pathways you often only catch a glimpse of them through the trees.

For a short stay, the entry-level Beach Hut did the job. For a longer trip, I would spend more and choose one of the villas or cottages along the water.

The biggest appeal is privacy. You don't have people continually walking past your terrace, and some of the villas are so well screened that you can barely see them from the paths. You could spend a good part of the day around your own accommodation without feeling as though you were sitting in the middle of a resort.

There also isn't one giant central pool deck where everybody eventually ends up. One guest might be at the lagoon, someone else at Snorkeler's Cove, another by a pool and somebody else back at their villa. The whole property naturally spreads people out.

For me, the lagoon and waterway accommodation would be the first place I'd look next time. The Beach Hut was a good introduction to GoldenEye, but after seeing the rest of the estate, I know I would go up a category on a return visit.

My One Bedroom Beach Hut

Because this was only a short stay, I booked the entry-level One Bedroom Beach Hut. GoldenEye has 17 of these, each around 425 sq ft (40 sq m), so they are considerably smaller than the villas and cottages elsewhere on the property. For two people spending most of the day outside, though, I didn't find the size a problem.

The Beach Huts are fairly simple inside, with white paneling, timber floors, wooden shutters, woven furniture and splashes of Jamaican color. Ours had a king-size bed draped with mosquito netting and large louvered windows that could be opened to let in the light and air. They are air-conditioned as well, which you definitely appreciate once the Jamaican heat kicks in.

I liked that it didn't feel like an entry-level hotel room where everything interesting had been removed to persuade you to upgrade. It still felt very much part of GoldenEye.

The veranda was probably my favorite part of the hut. The Beach Huts are freestanding rather than joined together in a block, and ours was surrounded by tropical planting.

I could sit outside without feeling as though I was on a hotel corridor or sharing the space with the room next door. The Beach Huts are also grouped between Snorkeler's Cove and Button Beach, so you are only a short walk from the water.

Inside, there was a good minibar and coffee setup with bottled water, tea, coffee, spirits and snacks. GoldenEye uses Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee with a Bodum press in the rooms, which is a nice touch when you're in Jamaica.

For what I wanted on this trip, the Beach Hut was a good choice. I wasn't planning on spending hours in the room and didn't need a kitchen, separate living room or huge terrace. Most of the time we were swimming, eating, having drinks or wandering around the property.

There was, however, one thing I hadn't really thought through when I booked it: the bathroom.

Our shower was completely outdoors.

Privacy wasn't an issue at all. The shower was enclosed by bamboo and timber screening with thick tropical planting around it, and I never felt exposed. On a hot Jamaican morning, having a shower outside was quite enjoyable.

What I wasn't as keen on was that there was no alternative indoor shower in our particular hut. The bathroom arrangement can vary between Beach Huts, with some having an interior wet room rather than the outdoor shower, so this is something I would specifically check when booking.

Jamaica can get some serious tropical rain and I kept wondering what I would do if the weather was awful. An outdoor shower is great when you decide you fancy an outdoor shower. I am less convinced when it is your only choice.

It is one of the reasons I would choose a different room category next time. The Beach Hut was perfectly good for a couple of nights, and I would happily recommend it to someone who wants the GoldenEye experience without spending substantially more on one of the villas. For a longer stay, I would want a little more space and, most importantly, a bathtub.

What Are the Other Room Types at GoldenEye?

Once I had walked around GoldenEye and seen more of the accommodation, I started to understand where I would spend the extra money on a future trip. There is quite a jump between the entry-level Beach Huts and some of the cottages and villas, both in size and in how you experience the property.

The Lagoon Cottages would probably be near the top of my list. There are only eight of them and each is around 720 sq ft (67 sq m). They sit directly on the lagoon and have a private veranda and dock with steps straight into the water, as well as their own kayak. Inside, the king-size bed faces the lagoon and Santa Maria Island. Most importantly after my Beach Hut experience, they also have a deep clawfoot bathtub as well as an outdoor shower.

The One Bedroom Beach Villas are considerably larger at around 1,100 sq ft (102 sq m). There are only five and they open directly onto Low Cay Beach. These give you a separate living area, full kitchen, large private porch and outdoor dining area, as well as a clawfoot bathtub and outdoor garden shower. If I were staying for a week rather than a couple of nights, having that extra living space would start to become much more appealing.

There is also a One Bedroom Lagoon Villa, again around 1,100 sq ft (102 sq m), with a private stone deck and direct access into the lagoon. GoldenEye has larger two and three-bedroom Beach and Lagoon Villas as well, which make much more sense for families or groups of friends traveling together.

For someone who likes the idea of the Beach Huts but wants more room, there are also One Bedroom Beach Huts with Open-Air Lounge Rooms. These have the bedroom upstairs and a large open-air living and dining space underneath. They also have an outdoor bathtub and shower in the garden, which would have solved my main complaint about my own Beach Hut.

At the other end of the scale are GoldenEye's larger original villas and, of course, the Fleming Villa, Ian Fleming's former Jamaican home. That is really a different proposition again and is the obvious choice for somebody coming specifically for the history of GoldenEye and James Bond.

Having now seen the different areas in person, I don't think you necessarily need to book the most expensive accommodation to get the best experience. For my next stay, I would probably choose a Lagoon Cottage. It gives you direct access to one of my favorite parts of GoldenEye, considerably more space than the Beach Hut, plenty of privacy and, crucially after this trip, a proper bathtub.

GoldenEye's Lagoon Is Excellent

The lagoon is one of the biggest reasons I would return to GoldenEye.

The water is incredibly clear and seems to change color throughout the day, from bright turquoise in the sun to a much deeper green in the shade.

Lagoon Cottages and Lagoon Villas sit along sections of the water, but the planting is so dense that the buildings almost disappear into the landscape. You never really get the feeling that the lagoon has been built around.

There are ladders and small platforms where you can get straight into the water, along with loungers and quiet places to sit under the trees.

There were several times when I could sit beside the lagoon and barely see another guest. For a resort with quite a few different room categories and villas, it rarely felt busy.

That sense of space is one of GoldenEye's biggest strengths.

Snorkeler's Cove and the Beaches

Snorkeler's Cove was another favorite.

It is a small protected swimming area with very clear water, rocks and thick vegetation around the edge.

What I liked about it was how untouched it felt.

GoldenEye is very good at working around the landscape instead of trying to control it. Trees grow over the water, rocks are left in place and paths twist around the vegetation.

A lot of Caribbean resorts can feel over-designed, with perfectly raked beaches, palms lined up in rows and every view carefully staged. GoldenEye feels much looser. The beaches follow the same idea.

This is not the hotel for somebody whose main priority is a huge uninterrupted white-sand beach. Instead, the coastline is broken up into smaller beach areas, coves, rocks and protected swimming spots.

It gives you more choice and means guests spread themselves around the property rather than everybody ending up in one place. You can swim in the lagoon, head to Snorkeler's Cove, find a smaller beach or sit beside one of the quieter stretches of water.

It helps the resort feel much more private.

Pools and Water Sports

There are several swimming pools around GoldenEye as well.

Like the beaches, they are spread around the property rather than concentrated around one big central pool.

I never really had that experience of walking up to a pool and finding every lounger taken. People naturally spread themselves between the lagoon, beaches, pools and their villas. There is also a good amount to do if you want to be active.

Kayaks, paddleboards and sailing equipment are available, and the lagoon is ideal for getting out on the water because it is so calm and protected.

During my stay, the activity schedule included guided kayaking, snorkeling, paddleboarding, yoga, meditation and fitness sessions, along with different dinners and evening events.

I did very little of it.

I was there to catch up with a friend, have a few drinks, swim and relax, so I was quite happy doing almost nothing.

But if you prefer to have something planned each day, there is plenty going on without the hotel ever feeling like a resort built around scheduled activities.

The Food at GoldenEye Was Much Better Than I Expected

Food at Caribbean resorts can be hit and miss. I have stayed at some excellent hotels where the food was probably the weakest part of the entire experience.

GoldenEye was the opposite. Without fail, we ate extremely well.

What surprised me most was how Jamaican the food remained. There are burgers, pasta and salads if you want them, but they sit alongside curry goat, escovitch fish, jerk chicken, rice and peas, callaloo, plantain and bammy. A lot of the produce also comes from Pantrepant, GoldenEye owner Chris Blackwell's farm in Jamaica.

Breakfast Is À La Carte Rather Than a Huge Buffet

Breakfast was one of my favorite meals of the day because it wasn't a gigantic international hotel buffet.

You can keep things fairly light with tropical fruit, juice and coffee, but there are also proper Jamaican breakfast dishes. Ackee and saltfish features, as does callaloo, and GoldenEye has long served more familiar things such as pancakes and waffles alongside the local options.

My breakfast above was poached eggs with greens, tropical fruit, coffee and juice. It was fresh, filling and exactly what I wanted before spending most of the morning swimming.

Breakfast for two is included each day when booking an eligible Virtuoso rate through Clements Travel.

The Bambo Bar on the Beach Was My Favorite Place to Eat

For all the different dining options at GoldenEye, my favorite food was some of the least elaborate.

The Beach Hut area was where I really enjoyed the good old-fashioned Jamaican home-cooked style of food. Give me jerk chicken, fish, rice and peas and plantain with that view and I am very happy.

That was the food I wanted to eat in Jamaica.

It also suited GoldenEye much better than trying to turn every meal into fine dining. Sitting near the water eating Jamaican food was one of the highlights of the stay, and I would happily have eaten like that every day.

Bizot Bar Has a Surprisingly Good Jamaican Menu

Bizot is the main daytime restaurant, beside Low Cay Beach, and this is where the menu becomes much more interesting than the usual resort salads and sandwiches.

The current menu gives a pretty good idea of what GoldenEye does well. There is coconut-poached snapper with okra, lime and rice and peas; escovitch lionfish with fried bammy and slaw; curry goat with steamed rice and mango chutney; brown stew chicken with callaloo and fried plantain; and even oxtail braised in Red Stripe with broad beans, spinners and rice and peas.

If you don't want Jamaican food at every meal, there are things such as mahi-mahi fish tacos, a jerk chicken Caesar, pasta, salads and burgers as well.

Main courses were generally around US$20 to US$30, which I thought was quite reasonable for a Caribbean hotel of this level.

The Gazebo Is the Main Dinner Restaurant

The Gazebo is the main dinner restaurant and the closest GoldenEye gets to a more formal evening meal.

It sits above Low Cay Beach and the lagoon and the menu moves more towards local seafood, Jamaican dishes and surf and turf.

I wouldn't describe it as formal in the traditional sense. You aren't suddenly dressing for dinner and entering a grand dining room. It is just a step up from eating barefoot beside the beach.

Shabeen Is Really for Drinks

Shabeen is beside the pool in the Beach Huts area and is much more of a bar than a restaurant.

It has a rooftop lounge overlooking the sea, so this is somewhere to get a Red Stripe or a cocktail rather than somewhere I would plan an entire evening around.

And that brings me to something worth knowing about GoldenEye: it isn't particularly lively at night.

There isn't a big bar scene and during my stay it was generally pretty quiet after dinner. If you are coming here expecting a social resort where everyone ends up drinking together until 1am, this isn't really that hotel.

For me, GoldenEye was much more about swimming, eating very good Jamaican food, having a few drinks and eventually trying to remember which path led back to my Beach Hut.

Ian Fleming and James Bond

The history is obviously impossible to ignore.

Ian Fleming bought GoldenEye in 1946 and built his Jamaican home here. It became the place where he wrote the James Bond novels.

Chris Blackwell bought GoldenEye in 1976 and gradually expanded the estate, eventually developing it into the hotel it is today. The original Fleming Villa remains part of the property and can still be booked.

One of my favorite pieces of GoldenEye history has nothing to do with Bond. Sting wrote Every Breath You Take while staying here.

What I liked is that GoldenEye doesn't overdo any of this history. There aren't 007 logos everywhere or endless James Bond references.

It could very easily have become a James Bond attraction with a hotel attached. Instead, the Fleming connection is simply part of the place, and I think GoldenEye is much better for it.

Sting Wrote Every Breath You Take at GoldenEye

One of GoldenEye's best music stories came years after Fleming.

Sting wrote Every Breath You Take while staying at the property in the early 1980s.

It's a small piece of GoldenEye history, but one I found more interesting than another list of famous guests. The place has clearly been inspiring people for decades.

Sea Turtles

There is also a noticeable focus on the natural environment around Oracabessa.

GoldenEye sits within an area used by loggerhead, hawksbill and leatherback turtles, and information around the property explains their nesting around the local coastline.

The surrounding Oracabessa Bay area is also protected by a fish sanctuary established to protect its marine ecosystem.

Sunset

The sunsets were excellent.

There are rocky little stretches of coastline around the property where you can sit with a drink and watch the sun disappear over the Caribbean.

No organised sunset experience needed. Just find a spot, grab a drink and stay there for a while.

What Could GoldenEye Do Better?

There are a few things I would change at GoldenEye, starting with the paperwork. The reservation process and arrival administration felt repetitive, and there is no reason guests should have to provide the same information more than once. For a hotel at this level, that side of the experience could be much more efficient.

The second is nighttime navigation. GoldenEye is huge, and its winding paths and dense vegetation are a big part of its character. During the day, getting slightly lost is almost enjoyable. At night, after a few drinks and dinner, it becomes considerably harder to work out where you are going. Some better lighting and discreet signs at the main junctions would help without taking away from the atmosphere.

Finally, I would choose a room with an indoor bathing option next time. The outdoor shower in my Beach Hut was fun, private and very Jamaican, and I enjoyed using it. But after a few days, I think I would want the option of an indoor shower or bathtub as well.

Who Should Stay at GoldenEye?

GoldenEye is for people who like hotels with personality and don't need everything to feel polished and new. It is particularly good for travelers who value privacy, tropical gardens, being close to the water and having accommodation that feels separate from everybody else.

Couples would love it, but I also think it is a great hotel for friends traveling together. There are beaches, bars, restaurants, the lagoon and plenty of places to disappear for a few hours, so you can spend time together without feeling as though you need to be attached at the hip all day.

Some of the larger villas would also be a great choice for families or groups, particularly if privacy is important.

I would be more careful recommending GoldenEye to someone looking for a highly polished modern Caribbean resort with enormous bathrooms, very formal service and a huge sweep of white sand directly outside their room. GoldenEye isn't trying to compete with those hotels, and that is a large part of its appeal.

Would I Go Back to GoldenEye?

Definitely, although I would probably spend more on the room next time.

My Beach Hut was comfortable and worked well for a short stay, but after seeing the villas lining the lagoon and waterways, that is where I would want to stay on a return visit. Some looked incredibly private, with gardens and water immediately outside.

I would also go back for the food. That surprised me more than anything. Caribbean resort food can be inconsistent, and I arrived expecting GoldenEye's setting and history to be the highlights. Instead, every meal we ate was excellent, particularly the Jamaican dishes.

What makes GoldenEye memorable, though, isn't one big feature. It's the combination of the lagoon, villas hidden among tropical gardens, little beaches, outdoor bars, Jamaican food, Ian Fleming history and a hotel that feels as though it has evolved over decades rather than being designed and opened all at once.

The James Bond connection and famous guests make for good stories, but they aren't really what I remember most.

I remember drinking Red Stripe with a friend, getting lost on the way back from dinner, swimming in the lagoon, eating excellent Jamaican food and spending a couple of days with absolutely nowhere else I needed to be.

That's the GoldenEye I would go back for.

Book GoldenEye Jamaica With Clements Travel

If GoldenEye sounds like your kind of hotel, I can arrange your stay through Clements Travel with Virtuoso benefits on eligible rates, while you still pay the hotel directly.

Virtuoso benefits can include daily breakfast for two, a hotel credit during your stay, an upgrade on arrival when available, early check-in and late check-out when available, and additional recognition from the hotel. The exact benefits depend on the rate and dates booked.

I can also help you decide which part of GoldenEye to stay in. Having stayed here myself and seen the different areas of the property, I can talk you through the Beach Huts, Lagoon Cottages and villas and help work out where it is worth spending more.

Contact Clements Travel for a GoldenEye quote. I can compare the available rates, add the best eligible Virtuoso benefits and help you choose the right room or villa for your stay.